It’s always about superb craftsmanship and bottomless imagination; also about wearable luxuries that can tease and please! Some of those wintery colors in the Just Cavalli Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection reminded me of a warm summery setting, and for that matter I wanted to say a few things about this collection in advance. Get the essence of it and translate it into your current warm-weather wardrobe choices!
The collection describes a woman’s desire for freedom and meets the formal balance of Bauhaus, creating an imaginary place where the warmth of romance and the formality of techno merge. Quite surreal, yet fabulously plausible!
The silhouettes have a pure, functional design; lines are slim and slightly flared for miniskirts, or diluted and open for dresses, while the woven profiles of velvet coats blend wide lapels with tall collars and feather embroidery. The tight-fitting shirts are in lace, with fur-edged collars. Both the waistcoats in shearling and feathers and the bomber jackets and aviator jumpsuits in silk cady and lace reveal details that are modern yet feminine at the same time.
Untreated wools with a pavé of micro-studs and jacquard with coppered plaques prevail for knitwear, lit up by vanisè lurex and optical-art prints, which also feature on outerwear and trousers. Brocades with Bauhaus inspiration and lightweight patterns of stems and fronds turn into a flight of fading feathers, in embroidery and prints. Showy zips cut through the revolutionary spirit of the collection with sharp geometrics, framed by long angora scarves.
Warm shades such as rust, lead grey, mustard and deep blood red add depth to the lines. Old rose, orange, green and bright airforce blue play with layers and colour filling and variations on a theme of white.
Bags in nappa, velvet or applied ostrich, are semi-rigid in three different sizes. Architectural designs also for the ankle boots with column heel, in suede, pony or croc print in plain or patchwork colorways.
What an amazing and diverse mix of new-age bohemian attitude and ever-lasting unconventional spirit it was! Be daring and start to blend all those contrasting elements to soon find out that harmony comes from within conflict and revolution. Pushing the boundaries is always a good thing!