Front Row

New York Fashion Week FW21 – Gabriela Hearst Designs For Those Who Shine Bright

Gabriela Hearst who has also been recently appointed as Creative Director at the historic luxury fashion house Chloé, designs with effortlessness and personality in mind. Her latest FW21 collection reassures her presence in the fashion industry as a creative force who appreciates quality and innate elegance. Her organic silhouettes and artisanal details are in line with her quest for sustainability and haute craftsmanship. As we have said in our previous article, her mission and journey are admirable. The latest show aired online from an industrial space and the raw, utilitarian nature of it contrasted beautifully with the delicate designs. Handmade things are her forte and among others, we adored the lace insets and trims on dresses that follow the body in the most elegant way. Waistlines are in some instances accented with belts and in others with the shapes themselves. The “new suit” for Gabriela involves a shirt-jacket with tonal or matching bottoms. Outerwear becomes more interesting with panels and knot details on the shoulders. Models on the runway showcase the richness of body type variety and mark another milestone in inclusivity. We believe these looks are made to last; this is surely how the designer sees it and what she aims at. Her eco-friendly use of upcycled deadstock and collaborations with women’s collectives from all over the world take the brand’s ethical identity to the next level. Cashmere still feels luxurious and all the pieces are super-coveted among fashionistas and women who appreciate the effort involved in each piece or fabric. Once again, this is a collection to cherish forever!

In the designer’s own words:

The collection is inspired by Saint Hildegard of Bingen. Born in 1098, at a time when women were removed from intellectual and creative life, St. Hildegard was a composer, poet, philosopher, mystic, linguist, botanist, and medical theorist. If she were born a man we would all know her name as we know Leonardo da Vinci’s. Her visions that started at an early age began her spiritual journey that can only be made with true passion. She saw that the answer was in the Green Power of Nature. She applied the Renaissance principles of Art and Science centuries before this period even began. Her Universal Man predates Leonardo’s Vitruvian by some 300 years.

Science and Art were the constant threads in her multidisciplinary existence. The ongoing interplay of the human being as microcosm – both physically and spiritually – with the macrocosm of the universe informed her approach. This extends from the visual to the musical: from the medical power of her flowers to her better-renowned compositions of sacred monophony. In art, healing, strength and power could be found. She challenged the popes and the structures around her, with the courage that comes from those connected to the collectiveness of our consciousness. Where Apathy doesn’t exist and “Awake” is the state. There is hope that comes from the voice of a woman who, nearly a millennia before us, believed that humanity would realize that the true face of God is compassion.

Mia’s Flower As I was studying Hildegard, I noticed my 12-year-old daughter’s flowers in her art book. She had been looking at true specimens in nature and replicating them. I was so impressed by their beauty of them and the fact that she was finding inspiration in nature. Her flowers became our prints, which were then also knitted and crocheted with the two non-for-profit women empowering co-ops we work within Uruguay and Bolivia. They also became the design for engineering our Swiss lace and leather macramé.

Music The soundtrack for the show is an original composition by Uruguayan Artist Juan Campodonico who took on the task of creating the emotional reach that is needed for a digital presentation.

Check more about the collection HERE

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