The Fall 2023 collection by Henry Zankov offers an exploration into the realms of seduction and nurturing, as showcased during a presentation at a gallery venue in Tribeca. The designer’s vision is not limited to the allure of tactile sensation, but expands into an expression of subtle sensuality through vivid and intense colors, patterns, and materials.
This concept of allure is translated into the garments themselves. Dresses and separate pieces feature cutout intarsia knits forming intricate patterns reminiscent of DNA strands. In one example, a striking cobalt zip-up jacket is highlighted by a sinuous brown stripe following the contours of the body. This is an indication of Zankov’s approach to outerwear and his playful experimentation with shape.
One of the standout pieces in the collection is a collaboration with artist Daniel Reynolds, whose colorful artwork was displayed in the presentation space. A recreation of one of Reynolds’s bold works, a white square vigorously filled with neon pink, is translated into a fine white sweater with elongated sleeves. This artistic fusion extends to skirts adorned with sequins and screen prints, imparting a captivating opaque shine, particularly when paired with oversized sweaters.
The collection evokes a blend of grunge and rustic coziness, epitomized by an oversized sweater robe and maxi dress, resembling cherished heirloom blankets. Presented in chocolate brown and grey, these pieces highlight the designer’s signature multi-colored stripes in seasonally vibrant tones. The garments, crafted from fluffy mohair alpaca, are wool-lined to ensure comfort.
Zankov further emphasizes that the fabrics of this season are more extreme in their softness, with a brushed texture and looser stitches. This tactility, according to the designer, encapsulates the idea of a warm embrace, further enhancing the theme of seduction through touch and appearance.