Front Row

Who Decides War FW23: City Vibes

Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore channeled New York’s essence for their Fall 2023 Who Decides War collection. Manhattan’s architectural layout echoed in square quilted designs, while playful embroideries resembled urban graffiti. The buzz of Wall Street led to their debut in suiting with relaxed pinstriped ensembles capturing both the formal and casual vibes of the city.

The uniqueness of WDW shone in their intricate denim work, featuring embroidery, lace, and new silver foil techniques. Distinctive pieces like a distressed denim skirt with tulle detailing stood out, as did the parachute skirts reminiscent of their past collections. Acknowledging popular demand, Bravado emphasized layered styles.

D’Amore expanded the women’s range with Victorian influences. Slimmer fits, corset details, and bustle designs showcased the era’s elegance. A standout piece was a dress with the brand’s signature arch cutouts reflecting the venue’s architecture. Men’s fashion softened with lace, pastels, and other delicate details, including a watercolor print collaboration with Jakischrist and intricate ivy embroidery on leather pants. The increased use of leather added richness to the collection.

The season was notable for its performance outerwear, with mountaineering influences and puffers created with the Italian brand ADD. A nod to New York’s hip-hop roots, Adidas’ iconic sneakers and T-shirts celebrating The Diplomats and Ruff Ryders made appearances. Holding the show at the Angel Orensanz Foundation added historical significance, given its previous association with designer Alexander McQueen. The show, titled “Politics as Usual” after a Jay-Z track, delved into the interplay of fashion and politics. Guided by the spirit of their mentor, Virgil Abloh, Bravado and D’Amore remain firmly rooted in their beliefs and vision.

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