Front Row

Proenza Schouler SS24: Beyond the Trends

The Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2024 collection, presented at New York Fashion Week, was a testament to the brand’s commitment to refining and evolving its signature style rather than chasing seasonal trends. Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez introduced a new monogram to the brand, resembling more of an infinity symbol than traditional letters, symbolizing the enduring and evolving nature of their designs.

The show took place at an unconventional location – Phillips’s Park Avenue headquarters, adding an element of intrigue. The new monogram subtly adorned the collection, including on a delicate cashmere sweater and as brass hardware on chic black loafers. This understated elegance was a highlight, showcasing the designers’ preference for a refined aesthetic over overt branding.

The collection continued the narrative started in their fall show, emphasizing continuity and evolution. The designs featured a mix of ordinary and exceptional, with pieces like bleached straight-leg jeans and a black leather coat with equestrian-inspired straps making a statement in their simplicity. The utility belt added to these pieces underscored practicality, while mesh dresses with hand-tacked ribbon and gossamer separates with “broken glass” embroidery brought in delicate artistry.

The brand’s iconic PS1 handbag returned in new iterations, complementing the collection’s aesthetic. The overall approach marked a departure from trend-driven fashion, focusing instead on subtlety and sophistication, honoring Proenza Schouler’s signature style.

The collection was well-received for its creative, clever, and clean designs, underpinned by a narrative that resonated with both the brand’s legacy and its forward-looking vision. It highlighted the designers’ skill in balancing intricate artisanship with a relaxed coolness, aligning with today’s fashion sensibilities while staying true to the brand’s ethos.

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