The Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2024 collection, presented at New York Fashion Week, marked a significant moment for the brand, particularly with Peter Do taking the reins as the new creative director. This collection represented more than just a fashion statement; it was a celebration of New York City, blending the brand’s legacy with Do’s personal experiences and vision.
Do’s debut for Helmut Lang was much anticipated and did not disappoint. His approach was a blend of referencing the brand’s archives while infusing his own identity as a queer Vietnamese-American designer. The collection featured cutout tanks, bubble skirts, and indigo denim, all elements that hark back to the brand’s roots, yet with a fresh perspective. The inclusion of a poem by Ocean Vuong, projected on the runway, added a personal and emotional depth to the presentation, intertwining themes like the American dream and family.
The show’s set was minimalist and industrial, reflecting the brand’s aesthetic. The utilization of New York’s iconic yellow cabs as a visual motif throughout the collection was a nod to both Helmut Lang’s innovative advertising in the ’90s and to Do’s immigrant experience. This touch was both nostalgic and forward-looking, illustrating the brand’s evolution.
Do’s expertise in tailoring was evident in the sharp suiting, crisp shirts, and stiff denim presented. The collection was seen as a solid foundation for Do to continue building upon as he shapes the future of Helmut Lang. This approach seems to be a strategic move to revive the brand’s relevance, appealing not just to long-time Lang enthusiasts but also to a broader audience.
Overall, Do’s debut for Helmut Lang has been received as a breath of fresh air for the iconic fashion house, promising a blend of homage to its past and a bold step into the future. The emphasis on detail, the interplay of historical references, and the commitment to creating enduring, accessible fashion were key highlights of this collection.
