The Altuzarra Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show, showcased at New York Fashion Week, marked a significant departure from designer Joseph Altuzarra’s previous collections, pivoting towards a more enigmatic and sophisticated aesthetic. The collection was heavily inspired by French New Wave cinema and the chilling narrative of Roman Polanski’s “Rosemary’s Baby”, weaving these influences into its fabric both literally and metaphorically.
This season, Altuzarra embraced a more grounded and authentic approach, moving away from the escapism that characterized his previous works. The collection featured a blend of elegance and mystery, with organza pencil skirts, exuberant pleats, bralettes, ladylike coats, and babydoll dresses. These pieces were executed in a restrained color palette, yet vibrancy was introduced through silhouette, fuller shapes, shorter cuts, and fabrications with metallic threads, creating intriguing perma-wrinkles.
One of the standout aspects of the collection was its design details. Raw-cut slips provocatively hung below skirts, and a coat with a dress underneath resembled a nightgown, adding a layer of sensuality and allure. The “veiled babydoll dresses” were described as “four little ghosts,” shrouded in mystery and elegance. This collection also featured delicate embroidery, adding depth and intricate detail to the garments.
In accessories, square-toed shoes injected a sixties vibe, and a focus on ear adornments was observed, with bags playing a significant role in the overall styling. However, there were moments where the color choices of the bags clashed with the dresses.
The color palette of the collection was a poetic exploration in itself, with hues of green, white, red, grey, and black adding emotional layers to the ensembles. This collection was more than just a fusion of fabric and stitches; it was a testament to the ever-evolving nature of art, echoing bygone eras and the allure of cinematic storytelling.
Despite the impressive craftsmanship and artistry, the collection, in my opinion, seemed to rely on a bygone trend, utilizing organza in a manner that could have been more innovative. There were also moments when the color choices didn’t fully capture the intended enthusiasm.
In summary, while the Altuzarra Spring/Summer 2024 collection showcased a commendable evolution of the brand, balancing between new territories and its signature style, it left room for more originality and distinctiveness in its future endeavors.
