In the grand tapestry of Milan Fashion Week, Alessandro Vigilante‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection emerged as a poignant ode to minimalism and essence. Unveiling a line that marked a return to the origins of design—clean lines, sharp contours, and the purity of form—the collection resonated with those seeking comfort, security, and an understated elegance in their attire.
Vigilante’s vision was one of mature sophistication, targeting the woman who is resolute, strong, and self-assured. This woman does not seek approval through exhibition but rather finds confidence in her understated elegance. The collection’s inspiration, drawn from the paintings of the renowned artist Malevich and his exploration of pure form and primary colors, served as a backdrop for Vigilante’s exploration of geometric abstraction in fashion.
Key pieces reflected Malevich’s artistic legacy, with white, black, and red dominating the color palette. These hues were presented in bold blocks of color within the same garment, mirroring the geometric shapes Malevich celebrated on canvas.
The collection saw the reinvention of nylon taffeta garments, designed to be layered: an oversized bomber with ruched sleeves over a long trench and banana pants, and a corseted pant paired with a distinctively shaped padded jacket.
Iconic brand pieces underwent a transformation, becoming more simplified yet remaining impactful. Oversized jackets inspired by Pina Bausch lost their long lapels, adopting a more graphic look with deep V-necks, while the double-breasted blazer inspired by Carolyne Carlson, which previously left the back bare, regained its fabric, embracing a more conservative yet still striking aesthetic.
The collection’s focus remained on masculine and sartorial looks, complete with impeccable shirts featuring the brand’s signature rounded sleeve, showcasing comfort without sacrificing distinctiveness. Suits were made up of interchangeable pieces: blazers, either relaxed or fitted, paired with comfortable banana pants or high-waisted pants with anatomical cuts and wide legs. The addition of body-hugging ensembles made from the brand’s favored compact jersey stretch fabric in graphic black introduced a new dimension to the collection, emphasizing sharp anatomical cuts.
This season’s novelty, natural-colored tweed check, maintained the sculptural forms of jackets and trousers, presenting an unusual yet captivating choice for an oversized bomber. Hyper-tailored and essential pieces in mastice-colored woolen cloth, including long coats, blazers, and trousers, underscored the collection’s commitment to sartorial excellence.
Light vintage-effect denim completed each look, with banana denim pants becoming a staple in any wardrobe. The collection’s palette was complemented by rust, skintone, and grey hues, alongside vibrant touches of deep fuchsia in fluid froissé satin and deep petrol in tailored pieces. Latex, used sparingly, added an unexpected edge.
Alessandro Vigilante’s FW24 collection is a masterclass in the art of reduction, where less truly became more. Through this minimalist approach, Vigilante not only paid homage to the legacy of Malevich but also offered a fresh perspective on modern elegance.
