At Palazzo Morando in Milan, Vietnamese designer Phan Dang Hoang unveiled his Fall/Winter 2026 collection, Lacquer, with a sharp focus on construction, texture, and finish. Presented within the Fashion Hub of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the collection placed the garments firmly at the center, where technique and material defined every look.
Photo: Donald Ngamene
The collection is driven by layering—both visual and structural. Fabrics are meticulously built up to create dense, polished surfaces that evoke the depth and sheen of lacquer. This approach gives each piece a dimensional quality, with light gliding across coats, dresses, and tailoring, revealing subtle contrasts between matte and gloss finishes.
Photo: Alice Pisani
Tailoring is precise and architectural. Jackets are cut with elongated, clean lines that contour the body while maintaining a sculptural presence. Trousers fall with a sense of clarity and intention, reinforcing a streamlined silhouette. This discipline anchors the collection, allowing even the more expressive pieces to feel controlled and refined.
Photo: Donald Ngamene
Outerwear emerges as a standout, defined by its sculptural construction. Coats are shaped through careful layering and pattern-making, creating volume that feels deliberate and contained. Their surfaces appear compact and almost sealed, enhancing the lacquer-like effect that runs throughout the collection.
Photo: Donald Ngamene
Eveningwear explores texture as its primary language. Dresses rely on construction rather than embellishment, with layered textiles creating depth and a quiet luminosity. Dark, saturated tones—particularly black and deep neutrals—intensify the reflective quality of the fabrics, lending the garments a restrained yet impactful presence.
Photo: Donald Ngamene
Craftsmanship is evident in every detail. Many pieces are developed in collaboration with Vietnamese artisans, resulting in a high level of precision in finishing and material treatment. Seams are exact, layers are controlled, and each surface feels considered, reinforcing a sense of tactile luxury.
Photo: Donald Ngamene
There is a constant interplay between structure and movement. While tailoring provides a strong framework, draped elements introduce fluidity, allowing silhouettes to shift and soften as the wearer moves. This balance creates a rhythm across the collection, where sharp lines and flowing forms coexist with ease.
Photo: Alice Pisani
A defining piece, Sculpture, captures this tension. Constructed on a velvet base, it features geometric elements that rise from the body, finished with a lacquer-like sheen. The draped skirt introduces motion and contrast, while the deep black tone amplifies its sculptural impact.
Drawing inspiration from the designer’s Vietnamese heritage, the Lacquer collection enriches the language of clothes—through surface, cut, and construction. Each garment is defined by its material presence, offering a refined exploration of texture and form within a modern, sharply executed wardrobe.
