One day before the official finale of the NY Fashion Week, we all witnessed an intricate mix of references and inspirations reworked and presented as fresh interpretations of older trends.
At Malan Breton, we saw 60’s mod, punkish, 90’s and Victorian elements in one runway show. Biker jackets, pastel-hued cocktail gowns and dresses, slim cut suits with flared pants and ties for women, empire-waist maxi dresses, statement necklaces, and multiple strands of pearls, along with Asian-inspired printed motifs, created nostalgic atmosphere reminiscent of those travels our cosmopolitan grandmas made across the world, always in exquisite style! Accessories such as geometrically patterned jewelry, shoes, and bag played and instrumental role in this collection. A man in his knickers and a knitted bathrobe or a bride sporting tangerine evening gown accessorized with a golden spiked tiara? Which highlight from the show sounds more provocative to you?
At Lie Sangbong the artistic spirit of the designer shined bright with an impressive black painting on the catwalk floor and the framing walls. It was a wavy splashy pattern dominating the scene but also complementing the clothes. As we all detected on FW15 New York catwalks there was lots of black and/or white, intentionally suggesting a sharp and cool look for the new season. Lie was not exception to the rule, though adding to that some navy blue, red, yellow, and beige along with the signature butterfly-themed motifs. It was very modern and chic! I loved the red curly lamp jacket and collar, the juxtaposition of different textural details on outerwear such as pockets, collars, and belts, the sophisticated color-blocking, the artful mishmash of materials, the plaids, the intricate geometry characterizing those silhouettes, the easiness and the put-togetherness of all the looks!
At Francesca Liberatore, we’ve got many star-shaped motifs conquering the catwalk along with luxe materials and a sportive character on the cloths. There were cut-outs, asymmetries, metallic shine, selective use of fur on outerwear, argyle motifs in different textural versions, as well as functional pockets to keep inside our wintertime essentials. Models were wearing either ballet or brogue flats in silver and were holding bags referencing activewear. Unique, strategically placed prints that meant hipster attitude got much of the attention.
Finally, at Iijin I saw some beautiful wearables with a bit of artistic edginess such as striped bomber jackets, track pants, plaid jackets, and simple functional black or grey coats. Plaid is for sure the dominant motif for FW15 and this brand is certainly one that young hipsters will be looking into!