This day powerfully started with a Studio 54-inspired collection by Georgine who must have had Bianca Jagger and Jerry Hall in her mind when she was creating this sexy, sparkly and colorful collection. It was all about powerful music, the 70s, disco glam and big hair; silhouettes that were first made hugely popular by Yves Saint Laurent. The collection had some amazing wrap dresses, wide-leg pants, high-slit midi skirts in bold color, and a special part of it presented brightly colored fox fur! Elements that prevailed were shimmer and metallics, lace, yellow with blue, and patch pockets on t-shirts. It was retro but ultra relevant too!
My next stop was at 23rd Wall Street, in a very urban space under renovation, with concrete dominating the scene at the Diesel Black Gold show. It was indeed total black and a dark palette, a grungy aesthetic spiced up with femininity and minimalism, allowing textures and effects to speak by themselves in this very-New-York collection. Flats and mini skirts, roomy jackets, peplum tops defined the school girl of today as well as forever-young city dwellers who love to be edgy but avoid being loud. Andreas Melbostad perfected his earthy avant-gardeness with some major additions highly recommended as foundations of a new-age stylish wardrobe!
At Michael Costello, many signature lace gowns made a twist towards luxe goth style with accentuated shoulders, Rapunzel hair with protruding knots at the crown of the head, structured flares and lots of black or white. Whether they were gnomes, fairies, or alien girls from Mars, those models were seriously eye-catching.
At Skingraft many people love the easiness of the urban nomad and this time it got elevated further with strategically placed contrast of black with white or red. There was a Peruvian inspiration behind all this as well as the idea of exploring new alien cultures. Geometric motifs and brutal statue-like silhouettes accentuated this feel even more. And beyond the stripes or other visually appealing motifs, I was charmed by the use of rich materials such as shearling, wool jersey and cashmere!
Zang Toi as usual gave us a theatrical show with many regal details and adornments. He started through with ample black in various wearable forms, probably the ideal luxe basics for a busy lady’s wardrobe. He color scheme included also gold and bronze in opulent cocktail dresses and gowns, pleated or embellished; on many occasions accompanied with fox and mix fur stoles. Huge statement pieces for those planning to attend red carpet events next winter!
Finally, at The Arts Institutes student show I got impressed by rising talents in the fashion industry who aspire to conquer the scene with their unconventional, hard-to-compromise visions! They use tech materials, define rules of tailoring, experiment on risky topics, and right their own history right now! Congrats to all of them!
Love and stay tuned for more!!!