It’s never too early when we’re passionate with something. You wake up early, get prepped early, and you can’t wait to see the very first glimpse of a fashion moment. I happened to be staying quite close to Lincoln Center – at the Empire Hotel across the street – yet I woke up early to enjoy the quietness of the setting and feel deeply the anticipation…
First day at the NY Fashion Week was a very busy day starting early in the morning with a wonderful easy-to-wear Nicholas K collection colored olive, khaki, black, off-white and dark drown. The woman the designers had in mind was a modern nomad who wants to look interesting and confident all day long. It’s the idea of an urban safari with most prominent pieces some amazing infinity dresses and shawls or wraps that can be quite transformable for different occasions.
Then at BCBG Max Azria – still celebrating the 25th Anniversary – I encountered looks evoking timeless elegance and a bohemian flair, featuring exquisite tapestry motifs and abstract floral motifs; all inspired by the Color Reform concept. Fluid drape dresses out of sheer fabrics in layered cascades – some of them characterized, in terms of color, by sun-bleached softness, were combined with structured and quilted outerwear and jackets; combos defined by a carefree spirit and the amazing use of neutrals/pastels such as pink, blush, light haze, pale blue, cream, and lavender. It was femininity spiced up with menswear elements. It was also, according to me, a collection best described as the ‘creamy nature of softness’. As much as with the clothes, I fall in love with the music in this show: 5am/kwamie liv, fuel to fire/Agnes obel, 500 miles/sleeping at last. Marvelous!
Right away I hailed a taxi from Lincoln Center and rushed to cover the intimate and super chic Mathieu Mirano presentation. I arrived at this bright white space at Location 05 (509 W 34th Street, 2nd floor) while the designer was greeted and congratulated by Teen Vogue’s Style Features Director Andrew Bevan (known widely from Teen Vogue video series ‘Breakfast with Bevan’). I didn’t have enough time to contemplate on his incredible craftsmanship but in these precious minutes I noticed some amazing seaming and pleating, the interplay of shade and luminosity rendered in perforated leather, subtle floral prints on transparencies, lots of white, black and white, great tailoring, smart cutouts and unexpected little sparklers, strategically placed on collars and other spots. It was pure poetry and it’s not the first time that I praise this super-talented designer!
Few minutes later, I was again back at Lincoln Center for the Supima Cotton Contest in collaboration with top design schools in America that showcased some breathtaking new crop of talents in the industry, and was presented by beloved top-model Coco Rocha, a host with a balanced dose of humor and sweetness. I loved most of the designers and I was completely happy with the winner chosen by the judges – Anastasia lafrate from Kent State University . She was something really different and she was excited to use – along with all other students – the super soft Supima cotton for her incredible designs.
My next stop was at the Milk Studios (450 W 15th Street) for the Costello Tagliapietra show which was fully inspired by the ocean, a trend that transcended this time the whole NY Fashion Week. Being nostalgic and imaginative, the fabulous designer duo got also inspired by women in Paolo Roversi’s photos as well as Patricia Arquette’s character in Lost Highway, to create a romantic and cinematic version of femininity dressed in signature plaids and the ombré effect in deep blues, gray, olive and gold. To enhance the atmosphere, and make us a bit more relaxed (which I actually needed), the room was fragranced with MiN New York: bergamot, lemon, tarragon, absinthe, lavender, carnation, rose, jasmin, and a few other delicious aromatic notes.
Being rejuvenated by this aura, I headed to the Waterfront (269 11th Avenue btn 27 & 28th streets) to watch the Perry Ellis fashion show which really impressed me, featuring things more modern and relevant than ever before – fantastically youthful and wearable menswear that could easily rival the coolest equivalents in the Milan catwalks. In this amazing zen and organic setting that reminded me of Japanese-style spaces, I saw some amazing geo motifs, interesting contrasts, fabrics, and prints. It was a more fashion-forward edition of the preppy look. Masterfully designed backpacks and other accessories, highlighting functionality and easiness, went hand in hand with looks inspired by sailors and the nature. The design esthetic was sharp and interesting, defined to a large extend by black & white contrasts, light blues, shades of brown, stripes and things very appealing to the eye!
Back at Lincoln Center, I later got familiar with Meskita, a Brazilian-born well-established designer who gave us a show full of while & gold ethereal and feminine silhouettes, which had an impressive Dolce&Gabbanesque finale with all models coming out at once and marching in rows towards the end of the catwalk. This eye-catching eveningwear was very sexy and chic. I loved it!
Five blocks away, there was another great moment waiting for me – the Grungy Gentleman presentation which ended up into a party with smartly dressed male models dancing and mingling with fashionistas in their edgy looks, and drinking lots of refreshing Peroni. Before getting in, at the basement of the building, I saw fashion legend Andre Leon Talley sitting on a bench at the Hudson Hotel by the elevators, and chatting casually. It’s not the first time seeing him, but I’m always excited! And I was equally happy with the crazy vibes inside, and some really cool clothes from the collection defined by ultra-rich colors and interesting tailoring.
My first busy day of the week culminated in a beautiful dinner at Rosa Mexicano nearby Lincoln Center where they serve mouthwatering signature guacamole. By then, I was super hungry and needed full flavor to comfort me. Who said that fashionistas don’t eat well? Some of them are real foodies!