In the historic garden of Palazzo Bovara in Milan, a quiet gesture set the tone before the runway presentation began. At the entrance, guests encountered a solitary red bench placed among the greenery, inviting them to slow down for a moment of reflection. The simple yet powerful symbol introduced the concept behind Martino Midali’s Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection, In Sospensione, a project built around the idea of pause, awareness, and balance.
Presented during Milan Fashion Week, the show unfolded as a thoughtful dialogue between fashion and social consciousness. Developed in collaboration with the organization Stati Generali delle Donne, the presentation carried a message about gender equality and the value of women’s work.
The red bench became a cultural symbol connected to broader conversations about violence against women and collective responsibility. Statistics shared in connection with the initiative underscored the urgency of the issue: in Italy, more than a hundred women were killed in 2024, many within family contexts, and millions have experienced violence during their lifetime. Within this framework, the runway transformed into a space for reflection as much as style.
The collection itself unfolded as what Midali described as “a winter to inhabit.” Silhouettes followed the natural movement of the body rather than constraining it, emphasizing elongated vertical lines, soft shoulders, and lengths that extended below the knee.
Continuous volumes created a composed urban figure defined by fluidity and ease. Wool coats emerged as key pieces, distinguished by wide collars and off-center closures that subtly reinterpreted tailoring traditions.
Pinstripes softened into gentle graphic patterns, while geometric jacquards and straight skirts added a quiet architectural rhythm to the collection.
Material research played a central role throughout the lineup. Mélange wools, herringbone textures, and compact knitwear formed a tactile landscape that balanced softness with structure. The palette moved through luminous neutrals, mineral greys, warm browns, deep black, and midnight blue, evoking the tones of an urban winter.
Crisp technical fabrics introduced a modern dimension, appearing in lightweight, unlined parkas and adjustable silhouettes that brought movement and practicality to the layered wardrobe. Tone-on-tone knitwear and protective faux fur volumes completed the collection’s softly constructed outerwear, designed with breathable layers and open shapes that emphasized comfort and freedom.
One of the most meaningful moments of the show came through the casting. Alongside professional models, a group of women from different creative and professional fields walked the runway, each representing lived experience rather than an abstract ideal. Among them were Ludmilla Voronkina Bozzetti, Ida Di Filippo, Lorella Flego, Martina Pascutti, Paola Ran, and writer Chiara Tagliaferri. Their presence brought authenticity and depth to the presentation, embodying themes such as awareness, expertise, coherence, rebirth, artistic expression, and intellectual voice.
Through In Sospensione, Martino Midali presented more than a seasonal wardrobe. The collection reflected a philosophy in which clothing becomes a space to inhabit, designed to accompany the body with grace.
The result was an atmosphere of quiet elegance, where thoughtful silhouettes, refined textures, and purposeful storytelling created a winter landscape grounded in reflection and presence. In Milan, the runway became a moment where time seemed to slow, allowing fashion to speak in a softer, more deliberate voice.
