For this ultra-talented Italian designer, a charming storyteller of fashion, and a romantic at heart, the seasonal inspiration presented at the Milan Fashion Week is a flower storm, the allegory of balance breaking and coming back together, drawing new emotional landscapes. The Luisa Beccaria Fall/Winter 2023-2024 woman embodies a dialogue between ideal and daily immanence, the desire to be romantic and the determination to be independent.
She is a force of nature, passionate, and confident to express her spirit; she mixes different visions, from sportswear to 20s & 30s swing styles, yet stays true to a super-feminine attitude, which is powerful and delicate, quite characteristic of the brand.
Textures can be thick and wintery such as the sometimes printed corduroy, wool and flannel, or fluid and ethereal like chiffon and burnout satin, or technical as in the fabulous quilted jackets we saw, or smooth and shiny rendered with metallic jerseys. Oversized silhouettes are juxtaposed to fitted ones in lengths that range from mini to maxi.
We have many favorites from this collection, which we already added to next season’s wishlist! An explosion of flower buds embellishes flared dresses with matching balaclavas and this is all you need for next season. It is when your wardrobe takes on fairytale proportions.
In the collection, relaxed red trousers are complemented by a raglan-sleeve redingote accentuated with a high-waist belt. The same silhouette appears as an azure suede mini dress. A rosebud-encrusted blouse is worn over a printed mockneck and a monochrome jersey blouse is made couture-like through nervure stitching and embroidery.
For the evening, the rosebud print turns into embroidery on black velvet, or it changes into a sensual, voluptuous wild pansy motif. Glamorous, dreamy gowns are covered with sequins creating metallic lightnings, or come in the form of velvet devoré fitted dresses.
To fight the storm, literally and metaphorically, in style, the designer created some incredibly elegant and warm monochrome (white, red, azure) mohair maxi-coats and hooded bomber jackets, including sleeveless styles.
The color palette references the enigmatic “The Tempest” by Italian master Giorgione featuring cream, ivory, moss green, blue green, teal, turquoise, rose hues with hints of red and bordeaux, deep black touches, glimpses of bronze, and shades of grey-blue alluding to a mountain landscape and a winter sky, sometimes clear, sometimes stormy.
Luisa Baccaria always creates a magical aura around each collection. The Milan Fashion Week presentation at a beautifully decorated location in Brera offered us an opportunity to indulge in her own romantic, elegant, and opulent world.
Great craftsmanship, a talent in mixing colors and motifs, silhouettes that every woman would be thrilled to wear, music that represented the seasonal mood, a live performance, and models choreographed in a playful way made our day amidst a busy fashion week schedule. Looking forward to wear her head-to-toe blooming styles including floral tights that are the next major trend!