Brooklyn’s Farschou New York gallery buzzed with excitement at the much-anticipated LUAR‘s Fall/Winter 2023 show. Eager spectators crowded the Greenpoint venue, all hoping to witness Raul Lopez’s latest creation, a collection inspired by the streets of Williamsburg where the celebrated CFDA fashion award winner for American Accessory Design spent his childhood.
The collection, titled “Calle pero elegante,” or “street but elegant,” opened with an empowering gray wool gown, characterized by double-breasted regal gold buttons and dramatically exaggerated shoulders. This was followed by a brown dress and thick coat, both reflecting the same confident and poised styling. The oversized elements, a symbol of insecurity last season, now stood for self-assurance.
Lopez partnered with Saga Furs for a series of mink coats, ranging from classic black to experimental designs featuring wrapped-around layers or a multicolored spectrum. These pieces were accompanied by multi-toned tech jackets, well-suited for snow-capped mountain wear, complete with high necks, oversized sleeves, and secure button closures. Some jackets featured Luar’s logo, while others were adorned with a shiny letter “L.”
The collection also embraced elegant loungewear, such as a quarter-zip sweater and loose pants combined with an impressive top hat. Striking details included belts worn across the chest, locking arms inside rigidly shouldered shirts, and thin leather straps adding closure to flowing coats.
Accessories played a starring role, with the famous Ana bag making its appearance in sparkling variations, and models striding down the runway with leather harnesses holding wine glasses. It was a celebration of Lopez’s glamorous dreams, marking a decade of LUAR’s maturation.
Lopez, who was named a semifinalist for the LVMH Prize mere hours after the show, appeared hand-in-hand with his young niece at the finale, feeling definitely proud of what he has offered and achieved as a designer so far. His collection was not only a modern take on the Gilded Era but a treasure trove of elegantly draped skirts, tech-inspired jackets, hooded gowns, and opulent versions of the staple Ana bag. Above all, it represented a greater sense of empowerment, translating Lopez’s childhood memories into a vibrant display of style and elegance.