The inspiration of Jonathan Cohen for the FW23 collection began with an unassuming visit to the flower district for a bunch of peonies, aptly named “Birth Of A Peony.” As the days passed, the observation of these flowers, transforming from tight bulbs to broad, magnificent blooms, stimulated the creative thought process for this season.
The influence of this transformation, combined with the juxtaposition of peonies on a portrait book, heavily influenced the prints for the Jonathan Cohen collection. The smudged red lips of a vase resting on the book, along with an impromptu sketch of eyes and lips from various friends and muses, completed the print repertoire.
The silhouettes and fabric selections juxtapose the delicate nature of the peony. Leather remains a critical element in the collection, with a growing collaboration with Evolved By Nature. Dramatic capes with volume are paired unexpectedly with mini dresses made of leather or showcasing prints.
A navy faille cape is adorned with fabric scraps creating a galaxy-like imagery. Each gem took a careful ten minutes to dress and affix to the cape. Versatility was achieved by cropping the cape into jackets made from denim and leather for a remarkable appearance.
The collection premieres leather corsets and slim belts, with buckles designed to mirror the later stages of the peony. Metal buttons on cropped jackets also echoed the bloom theme. The innovative use of fabric remnants became a creative focal point in the Jonathan Cohen collection, evident in laser-cut flowers hand-embroidered with pearls and crystals falling down a denim bustier. White cotton fabric remnants offer a traditional take on an oversized button-down shirt, while leather scraps enhance the bralettes.