In Milan, Elisabetta Franchi is rewriting the language of sensuality through the subtle power of what remains partially concealed. For Spring/Summer 2027, the Italian designer turns her attention to the body with a collection built around tension: transparency against opacity, tailoring against elasticity, restraint against seduction.
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Presented on September 25, 2026, during Milan Fashion Week, the collection came to life at The Hub, the brand’s Milan showroom and creative headquarters. The setting proved particularly apt for a season concerned with precision, proportion and a more distilled vision of glamour.
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The opening proposition feels almost cinematic. Rather than relying on familiar ideas of exposure, Franchi redirects the eye toward collarbones, shoulders and the architecture of the silhouette. The bust is often covered as shoulders emerge, creating an intriguing shift in emphasis.
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Maxi blazers and elongated trench coats establish commanding proportions, while sheer fabrics, leather and cycling shorts introduce an athletic current that feels destined for evening rather than the gym. At the heart of the collection lies one of its most compelling ideas: the second skin.
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Tights escape their conventional role and become part of the wardrobe itself, transformed into dresses, skirts, tops and gloves. Their closeness to the body creates an uninterrupted line, following rather than disguising the figure. The effect is sensual without depending on conventional eveningwear formulas. A familiar everyday material suddenly acquires sophistication and attitude.
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Franchi’s corsetry remains integral to this vocabulary. Corsets sculpt and articulate the waist, providing definition against softer and more fluid surfaces.
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Elsewhere, the turtleneck undergoes its own transformation. Traditionally associated with coverage and restraint, it appears in transparent interpretations that turn its high neckline into a sensual frame for the face and body. It is this continual negotiation between concealment and revelation that gives Spring/Summer 2027 its pulse.
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Surface treatments deepen the story. A micro-jaguar motif is paired with oversized sequins to create embroidery that feels irregular and tactile, catching light without slipping into predictable ornamentation. Eel-effect leather and crocodile-effect PVC introduce glossy, provocative textures, while ruched jersey responds directly to movement, shifting and gathering around the body.
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The collection’s palette begins in an urbane register of camel, tobacco and black before moving into nude and soft pink. Then comes Red Velvet, an intense, decisive shade that punctuates the quieter neutrals with dramatic confidence.
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Franchi brings the same consideration to daytime dressing. Oxford cloth, denim and mélange gray enter the collection through carefully controlled silhouettes, proving that the season’s fascination with the female form extends beyond after-dark dressing. These more familiar fabrics gain polish through cut, proportion and strategically placed details that continually return attention to the body.
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Accessories amplify the collection’s study of opposites. Straight knee-high boots bring a disciplined vertical line to the silhouette, while thong mules offer a more exposed counterpoint. Bags move toward extremes of scale: generously oversized styles occupy one end of the spectrum, compact clutches the other. There is little interest in visual compromise. Proportion itself becomes part of the styling.
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The result is a wardrobe in which tailoring can coexist with sportswear and daylight pieces can carry the seductive energy traditionally reserved for evening. Transparency appears alongside structured construction; severe lines meet fabrics designed to cling, stretch and move.
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That dialogue captures the woman Franchi proposes for Spring/Summer 2027: cosmopolitan, self-aware and assured in the way she inhabits her clothes. Her sensuality comes from intention. She understands the effect of a bare shoulder beneath an imposing coat, the precision of a defined waist, the drama of transparency beneath a high neckline and the confidence inherent in choosing exactly how much to reveal.
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There is something particularly modern in that control. The collection allows the body to remain central while resisting the expectation that sensual dressing must follow an established formula. Instead, Franchi uses material, proportion and styling to suggest rather than declare.
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Founded in Bologna in the late 1990s by designer and entrepreneur Elisabetta Franchi, the namesake Italian fashion house has developed a recognizable universe around femininity, tailoring and glamour across ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories.
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Spring/Summer 2027 carries those codes forward through a sharper lens, exploring how a familiar fashion vocabulary can change when the perspective shifts. In Milan, that shift begins with the skin—or, more precisely, with everything that touches, frames and occasionally veils it.
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