In Haute Couture Spring Summer 2026, Francesco Scognamiglio returns with a collection that reads like a modern reliquary, where beauty, faith, and craft converge in a meditation on rebirth. Titled The Resurrection, the collection unfolds as both a spiritual narrative and an uncompromising creative statement, reaffirming the designer’s devotion to couture as an art form rooted in symbolism, emotion, and meticulous execution.
At the heart of the collection is the concept of living matter. Bouillonné surfaces ripple across garments as if animated from within, evoking flesh, breath, and transformation. From this tactile foundation emerges a silvered image of Christ, the collection’s symbolic nucleus. Rendered through intricate embroidery and luminous encrustations, the motif is framed within a baroque sensibility that shapes a long tunic in pure white chiffon. The result is an arresting balance of solemnity and sensuality, where spiritual iconography meets formal precision.
Light functions as an architectural force throughout the collection. Scognamiglio sculpts it into black and white crystal garments that shimmer with controlled intensity, anchored by corsetry engineered with conical cups.
These structures define a femininity that is resolute and intentional, emphasizing strength through restraint and clarity of form rather than excess. The body becomes a site of disciplined elegance, illuminated rather than exposed.
Color enters as atmosphere rather than decoration. Shades of sky blue and aqua bohemica wash over an ethereal tulle dress, its surface animated by crystals that drift across the silhouette with a liquid, almost weightless effect. This fragile luminosity is juxtaposed with an oversized mint-green fur jacket, a protective shell that amplifies the sense of suspension and breath. In these moments, couture becomes sensory, inviting the viewer into a space between reality and reverie.
The narrative then opens into a visionary garden. Flowers crafted from crystal and three-dimensional sequins bloom across layers of tulle in the soft hues of fior di maggio, creating a dreamlike landscape that feels suspended in time. This garden gives way to crinoline gowns embroidered with precious stones and crystals, hidden beneath expertly draped tulle.
Mirrored decorative elements in crystal and silver punctuate the silhouettes, catching light in fleeting reflections that suggest both fragility and permanence.
These final looks reinterpret the archetype of the aristocratic bride, a recurring emblem in haute couture and a signature within the maison’s visual language. Here, the bride is neither nostalgic nor ceremonial alone; she is reimagined as a symbol of continuity, devotion, and renewal, carrying the weight of history while remaining resolutely present.
With The Resurrection, Francesco Scognamiglio reasserts couture as a space where spirituality, material experimentation, and contemporary vision coexist in deliberate harmony.
