Front Row

Textile Magic Takes Form: Keqiao’s New Generation Shines in Milan

KEQIAO SS27 SAYAANNO

Milan’s Spring/Summer 2027 fashion calendar welcomed a compelling expression of contemporary Chinese design as Keqiao returned to Milano Fashion Week for the third edition of its Collective Runway Show. The presentation brought together Gu Yuandai, Liu Hongchao, Sancailiyi and Sayaanno, four creative voices exploring craftsmanship, materiality, nature and the passage of time through distinctly individual perspectives.

KEQIAO SS27 LIU HONGCHAO

For Keqiao, the return to Milan marks another chapter in an increasingly international fashion story. The district of Shaoxing City in Zhejiang Province is one of China’s major textile hubs, a place where generations of textile knowledge now intersect with an expanding focus on design, research, innovation and sustainability.

KEQIAO SS27 SAYAANNO

That evolution found a natural stage in Milan. Developed within a three-year agreement between Keqiao and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the initiative creates an ongoing exchange between Italy and China, bringing fashion’s creative and industrial worlds into closer conversation.

KEQIAO SS27 GU YUANDAI

For Spring/Summer 2027, that conversation was entrusted to four designers whose collections approached clothing from markedly personal points of view.
Gu Yuandai turns toward the relationship between memory and modernity, considering the place of craftsmanship within an industrialized age. Here, the garment becomes a keeper of time, capable of carrying traces of human skill and cultural memory into the present. Craft emerges as a living language, shaped by history yet open to reinterpretation.

KEQIAO SS27 LIU HONGCHAO

Liu Hongchao begins with the material itself. With knitwear at the heart of a research-driven practice, the designer investigates the artistic possibilities of fibers through natural materials, recycled elements and traditional artisanal techniques. Texture, construction and experimentation become part of the collection’s vocabulary, revealing how textile research can inform the emotional as well as the physical character of clothing.

KEQIAO SS27 SAICAILIYI

Sancailiyi looks toward Eastern philosophy for a quieter meditation on womenswear. Nature, material and the human body are held in careful equilibrium, giving rise to an essential and timeless approach. The resulting vision favors harmony over excess, allowing the relationship between fabric and the wearer to guide the collection’s identity.

KEQIAO SS27 SAYAANNO

Sayaanno explores another intimate territory: the meeting of body, time and nature. Research into construction and structure allows the garment itself to become a form of silent storytelling. Lines, volumes and the architecture of clothing carry meaning, creating pieces in which technique and narrative seem to move together.

KEQIAO SS27 LIU HONGCHAO

Seen collectively, Gu Yuandai, Liu Hongchao, Sancailiyi and Sayaanno offer a multifaceted portrait of a generation looking at fashion through craft, textile experimentation, philosophy and construction. Their individual languages also illuminate the broader transformation taking place in Keqiao, where an extraordinary textile infrastructure is increasingly accompanied by an ambition to cultivate original creative expression.

KEQIAO SS27 SAICAILIYI

The relationship between Keqiao and Milan extends beyond a single runway. The three-year collaboration with Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana has been conceived as a reciprocal program of exchange. Following the participation of Keqiao designers in Milan, Keqiao Fashion Week is set to welcome a selection of emerging Italian designers in China, allowing ideas and creative practices to travel in both directions.

KEQIAO SS27 SAYAANNO

This cultural dialogue unfolds against a wider period of renewed engagement between Italy and China. The Italy-China Action Plan 2024–2027 identifies fashion among the areas for cooperation, while economic relations continue to encourage trade and the presence of Made in Italy in the Chinese market.
Fashion feels particularly suited to such an exchange. Both countries possess centuries of textile, artisanal and manufacturing knowledge, traditions that continue to acquire new relevance when placed in the hands of contemporary designers. The runway becomes a meeting place for those histories while leaving space for something new to emerge.

KEQIAO SS27 GU YUANDAI

Keqiao’s latest Milan chapter ultimately speaks through the designers themselves. Gu Yuandai finds memory within clothing. Liu Hongchao investigates the expressive life of fiber. Sancailiyi searches for equilibrium between nature, material and the body. Sayaanno transforms construction into a quiet narrative. Together in Milan, their work offered an elegant glimpse of where Keqiao is heading: toward a future in which textile heritage remains deeply present, yet creativity determines what comes next.

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