During Milan Fashion Week, the Neapolitan label Saman Loira debuted its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Ad Vesuvium — a deeply evocative tribute to the raw power of Mount Vesuvius and the richness of its surrounding land. Created by designer Francesco Corcione and art director Francesco Canessa, the brand once again channeled its signature poetic minimalism and commitment to sustainability into a collection that felt both rooted in nature and soaring in imagination.
Held at The Apartment by Camera Moda Fashion Trust, the presentation unfolded like a slow-burning eruption — tactile, immersive, and quietly powerful. Ad Vesuvium signaled a distinct evolution in the Saman Loira vocabulary: still delicate, still romantic, but now layered with volcanic strength and a newfound structural drama. The silhouettes caressed and sculpted the body with sensual authority — incandescent jersey slits traced the lines of mermaid skirts, tailored corsets clung with refined intensity, and trousers unfolded with micro-pleats and ribbing that echoed geological formations.
Materiality played a starring role. Dark, lustrous fabrics like gabardine, virgin wool, cotton, and silk were transformed into natural “looms,” embodying the rugged surface of lava and lapilli.
Every stitch and texture hinted at the elemental — some pieces appearing weathered and wrinkled, others gleaming like molten rock. The color palette, too, was born from the land: graphite, slate, charcoal, obsidian, and white pumice, punctuated by the deep, earthy tones of forest brown.
A key highlight of the collection was the “Foresta” evening gown, a sculptural piece crafted in velvet-soft jersey. More than just a dress, it was the result of a sensual and unexpected collaboration with Gay-Odin, the revered Neapolitan chocolatier founded in 1894.
Inspired by the maison’s iconic “Tronchetto Foresta” chocolate log, the gown mimicked its rippling layers — a delicious convergence of texture and taste, storytelling and silhouette.
Sustainability remained a cornerstone of Saman Loira’s identity, not only through fabric choices but through visible, intentional upcycling techniques. These weren’t afterthoughts — they were elevated to the level of couture, woven boldly into the aesthetic as a symbol of what modern luxury must become: environmentally aware, artisanal, and emotionally resonant.
With Ad Vesuvium, Saman Loira proves that fashion can be as volatile and moving as the earth itself — forging beauty from the deepest places, and letting it rise.
