From sculptural denim corsets and ultra-low-rise jeans to seductive lace, refined tailoring, and midnight-blue jacquards, Lauro De Marinis’s ESIBIZIONISTA collection offers an irresistible first taste of Winter 2027/28, with an exclusive selection of pieces available to shop now.
Fashion’s most desirable pieces usually come with a waiting game. Dondup, however, is giving us a head start. With ESIBIZIONISTA, its new Winter 2027/28 collection, the Italian fashion house is offering an early glimpse of a denim-led wardrobe designed for women who appreciate impeccable tailoring, sensual silhouettes, and the allure of dressing up. Better still, 11 pieces from the collection are available a year ahead of the main seasonal launch, introducing a see-now, buy-now opportunity that makes the future of denim dressing feel particularly tempting.
Conceived by creative director Lauro De Marinis, internationally known as Achille Lauro, ESIBIZIONISTA explores what happens when denim moves beyond its familiar daytime territory and enters the world of eveningwear. Think sculpted bustiers, corsets, figure-hugging dresses, sophisticated tailoring, delicate lace, and rich jacquards, all connected by a distinctive Italian attitude toward femininity and personal style.
Unveiled on September 25, 2026, during Milan Fashion Week, the collection arrived through a cinematic presentation that brought fashion, music, and performance together. A music video captured a runway show and a flash mob of denim-clad women taking over Milan, accompanied by a title track curated by De Marinis himself. The film premiered on YouTube, with the soundtrack released simultaneously across music platforms.
While the fashion world was looking toward the following summer, Dondup was already imagining winter a year further ahead. And with its early shopping release, the house has given fashion enthusiasts something tangible to covet in the meantime.
The Jeans: A Fresh Take on the Denim Essentials
Naturally, the starting point is denim itself. Dondup has spent more than 25 years perfecting its relationship with the fabric, and ESIBIZIONISTA puts that expertise to work through a series of silhouettes that celebrate individuality and fit.
High-waisted jeans create a defined, elongated line, while ultra-low-rise styles introduce a more daring, body-conscious attitude. Generous volumes bring ease and movement, balancing the collection’s precise construction with a relaxed sensibility.
The washes are equally appealing. Ice blue, faded indigo, and fresh white establish a palette that feels effortlessly wearable, offering plenty of possibilities for creating a contemporary denim wardrobe.
For shoppers looking to refresh their everyday essentials, the appeal lies in choosing a silhouette that feels personal. A beautifully fitted high-rise jean remains an enduring wardrobe favorite, while looser proportions and ultra-low waists invite more adventurous styling.
Pair the lighter washes with crisp shirting or fine knitwear for daytime, then introduce sharper tailoring and statement accessories as evening approaches.
The Tailoring: When Denim Learns to Dress Up
One of the collection’s most compelling propositions is the way denim takes on the language of tailoring. Structured constructions, pinstripe references, and uniform-inspired elements bring a polished dimension to the fabric, while influences from masculine dressing and workwear introduce a sophisticated play on proportions.
The result is a wardrobe that invites denim into settings traditionally associated with more formal clothing. The familiar texture acquires a sense of precision, with silhouettes that feel considered, confident, and distinctly modern.
For a fashion-forward approach, imagine pairing a structured denim piece with tailored trousers, or balancing more generous denim volumes with a fitted top. The interplay between masculine and feminine elements creates an appealing tension, allowing even the simplest outfit to feel carefully styled.
It is this versatility that makes the collection particularly interesting from a shopping perspective. The pieces are conceived within a wardrobe where denim can move naturally between casual occasions and more elevated moments.
The Corsets and Bustiers: The Pieces to Covet After Dark
If there is one category that captures the seductive spirit of ESIBIZIONISTA, it is the collection’s sculptural corsetry. As the denim becomes darker and more compact, it begins to embrace the body through precisely constructed bustiers, corsets, fitted jackets, and bodysuits. Seams follow anatomical lines, creating shapes that emphasize the waist, define the torso, and celebrate the female silhouette.
The effect is architectural yet sensual, with the fabric transformed into something unexpectedly refined. These are the kinds of statement pieces that can instantly change the mood of an outfit. A denim corset paired with tailored trousers suggests effortless evening glamour, while a structured bustier worn with a long skirt creates a more dramatic silhouette. The bodysuits offer another intriguing possibility, bringing clean, body-conscious lines to looks that can be styled with relaxed tailoring or more sophisticated separates. For anyone drawn to distinctive wardrobe investments, these pieces make a persuasive case for bringing denim into the evening conversation.
The Dresses: Midnight Blue Is Having Its Moment
The collection’s after-dark appeal becomes particularly evident in its dresses. Denim evolves into fitted sheath dresses and long, rigorously constructed silhouettes, with compact textures and precisely placed seams that follow the contours of the body.
There is a striking sense of discipline to these designs. Their sensuality comes from proportion, construction, and the relationship between fabric and form. The darker palette adds another layer of sophistication. Rich indigo and midnight blue lend depth to the silhouettes, creating an elegant foundation for evening styling.
A fitted denim dress paired with sculptural jewelry and sleek heels would make a compelling choice for dinner or an evening event. Longer silhouettes suggest an even more dramatic approach, where minimal accessories allow the garment’s construction to take center stage.
The Lace, Jacquards, and Finishing Touches: Beyond Denim
Although denim provides the collection’s foundation, the surrounding wardrobe is equally intriguing. One of ESIBIZIONISTA’s most distinctive elements is the reinterpretation of Dondup’s archival tribal motif, transformed into a contemporary monogram that appears across an array of materials and details.
Buttons, jewelry, lace, sheer fabrics, devoré treatments, knitwear, and jacquards become vehicles for this renewed house signature, adding texture and visual interest to the collection.
The evening jacquards are particularly appealing. Rendered in deep blue, the repeated motif creates a subtle tonal pattern that echoes the collection’s denim identity, even when the fabric itself is absent.
Lace and transparency introduce a softer, more intimate dimension, while knitwear offers opportunities to balance the collection’s structured silhouettes.
From a styling perspective, these elements are essential to the wardrobe’s appeal. A lace piece can bring delicacy to a sharply tailored look, while a richly textured jacquard adds depth to an evening ensemble.
The accessories and finishing details reinforce the sense of cohesion, making the collection feel like a complete wardrobe rather than a series of individual denim statements.
The Color Story: From Ice Blue to Midnight
ESIBIZIONISTA unfolds through a carefully considered progression of color. Pale ice blue and washed denim evoke the freshness of daytime, while richer indigo gradually introduces a more dramatic atmosphere. By evening, midnight blue takes center stage, giving the collection a sophisticated, almost cinematic quality. White provides moments of clarity, while discreet red accents punctuate the predominantly blue palette.
The return of Dondup’s signature red label is especially meaningful, referencing the house’s origins in 1999 and reinforcing its long-standing identity. For shoppers, the cohesive palette offers plenty of opportunities to build complementary looks. Different shades of blue can be layered together, while white and deep indigo provide a timeless foundation for accessories and statement pieces.
The beauty of this approach lies in its versatility: the same color family can accommodate relaxed daytime dressing, polished tailoring, and sensual eveningwear.
Lauro De Marinis’s Vision of Modern Femininity
ESIBIZIONISTA marks the second collection by Lauro De Marinis in his role as Dondup’s creative director, following EROTICA, introduced at Milan’s San Siro stadium in June 2026. Known for his expressive approach to music, fashion, and performance, De Marinis brings a theatrical sensibility to the Italian house, exploring clothing as an extension of identity and personal expression.
His vision centers on a woman who understands her own power and dresses accordingly. She embraces masculine and feminine codes, appreciates the beauty of precise construction, and approaches sensuality with confidence. That perspective is evident throughout ESIBIZIONISTA, where ultra-low-rise denim, sculpted corsets, refined tailoring, and elegant evening silhouettes coexist within the same creative universe.
The collection also reflects Dondup’s established expertise in Italian denim craftsmanship. Founded in 1999 in Fossombrone, in the heart of Italy’s denim-producing region, the house has built its reputation on exceptional fit, textile knowledge, and a contemporary urban aesthetic. Under De Marinis, those foundations are interpreted through a new creative lens, connecting the brand’s heritage with the expressive possibilities of music and performance.
The Shopping Twist: A First Taste of Winter 2027/28, Available Now
Perhaps the most enticing detail of ESIBIZIONISTA is its unconventional approach to the fashion calendar. While the complete collection is intended for Winter 2027/28, Dondup has introduced an exclusive 11-piece selection through a see-now, buy-now model, giving shoppers an opportunity to embrace the new aesthetic approximately a year ahead of its seasonal arrival.
The early selection launched on September 25, 2026, through Dondup boutiques, the brand’s official online store, and selected retailers, with the pieces scheduled to return as part of the future collection. It is an intriguing proposition for those who enjoy discovering fashion ahead of the season.
For those eager to discover the available designs, the official Dondup online boutique is the place to explore the brand’s current offering. Individual styles, sizes, and availability may vary. And while the full Winter 2027/28 wardrobe remains on the horizon, the collection already provides plenty of inspiration for the way we want to dress now.
