At this year’s Milan Fashion Week, denim—long a symbol of rebellion and mass consumption—was transformed into a medium of innovation and conscious creation. The spotlight belonged to S|STYLE – DENIM LAB, a bold special edition of the Sustainable Style platform, curated by Giorgia Cantarini in collaboration with Kering’s Material Innovation Lab (MIL). This initiative offered more than a fashion moment; it marked a pivotal turn in how the industry views one of its most beloved and resource-intensive textiles.
Giorgia Cantarini
The exhibition took place at Fondazione Sozzani, a Milanese venue known for championing cultural and environmental discourse. There, visitors were immersed in a dynamic space where art, fashion, and sustainability merged. The focus of this edition was crystal clear: water.
Denim’s environmental footprint is notoriously heavy due to water-intensive cotton farming, dyeing, and finishing processes. Kering’s newly launched Water Strategy, which aims for a Net Water-Positive impact by 2050, was woven into every thread of the project.
Eight emerging designers from around the globe were invited to reimagine denim with a radical approach—eschewing tradition in favor of sustainability and creative risk. Each look was crafted using cutting-edge technologies provided by MIL, alongside fabrics developed through low-impact processes. Designers drew from regenerative cotton, recycled fibers, and futuristic dyeing systems to present denim in a form few had seen before: artisanal, technical, and unmistakably contemporary.
Institution by Galib Gassanoff
Among the standout creations was a sculptural ensemble by Institution, a brand founded by Galib Gassanoff, which merges Georgian-Azeri cultural identity with handmade expression.
Gerrit Jacob
Berlin-based designer Gerrit Jacob took a rebellious route, manipulating airbrushed denim with fluorescent graphics that recalled his years at Gucci and Balenciaga.
Jeanne Friot
Jeanne Friot, a Parisian force known for her gender-inclusive and political messaging, brought her “no gender, no carbon emissions” mantra to life through experimental silhouettes that required dramatically less water to produce.
Macy Grimshaw
British designer Macy Grimshaw looked inward, transforming her family archive into tactile storytelling through sustainable denim techniques.
Nadya Dzyak
Sia Arnika
Nadya Dzyak, representing Ukraine, delivered pleated, architectural elegance in soft indigo hues, while Sia Arnika wove her Danish heritage into futuristic shapes that honored Nordic folklore.
Gisele Claudia Ntsama
Milan-based Cameroonian designer Gisèle Claudia Ntsama used denim as a canvas for African craftsmanship, merging couture precision with upcycled textures.
Phan Dang Hoang
Phan Dang Hoang, a rising Vietnamese star, blended theatrical tailoring and cultural heritage into polished silhouettes that balanced romance and innovation.
Technological breakthroughs enabled these designers to push denim beyond its traditional boundaries. They employed revolutionary processes like Smart Indigo®, an electrochemical dyeing method requiring minimal water and chemicals; Sonovia’s D(y)enim® ultrasonic dyeing, which reduces water use by 85%; and a suite of eco-finishing techniques from Tonello Srl, including laser treatments, ozone washing, and dyeing with plant-based waste. All participants used regenerative cotton supported by the Kering Regenerative Fund for Nature, signaling a commitment to both environmental recovery and social impact.
Mariano Franzetti
The experience extended beyond garments. The exhibition space featured a striking site-specific installation by artist Mariano Franzetti, crafted with recycled denim from Berto. The installation turned the room into a storybook of reimagined waste and textile transformation, where fashion was not just displayed but felt, questioned, and reconsidered.
Christian Tubito, Director of the Material Innovation Lab
Curator Giorgia Cantarini described denim as a “universal fabric” but also “one of the most complex in terms of environmental impact.” She emphasized that this edition was about proving how research and creativity can bring radical change to the very heart of fashion. Christian Tubito, Director of the Material Innovation Lab, reinforced this vision, calling the project “a tangible sign of change” and a model for how luxury can lead the way toward a more responsible fashion future.
In a moment when fashion weeks often blur into spectacle, S|STYLE – DENIM LAB stood out not just for its aesthetic richness but for its authenticity. It challenged conventions and redefined what sustainability can look like—not as a compromise, but as a canvas for innovation. At Milan Fashion Week, the message was clear: denim may have a heavy past, but it now has a lighter, smarter, more water-conscious future.
