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Pomandère SS27: Salt on the Skin, Elegance in the Air

With Sea Salt, Italian fashion label Pomandère embraces the evocative beauty of the coastline, translating sun-washed colors, exquisite textiles, and relaxed silhouettes into a sophisticated vision of contemporary summer dressing.

There is a particular kind of beauty that emerges along the coast, where the wind shapes the landscape, sunlight transforms familiar colors, and the sea leaves its delicate traces on everything it touches. For Spring-Summer 2027, Pomandère captures this atmosphere in Sea Salt, a collection devoted to the sensory pleasures of nature and the enduring appeal of thoughtful design.

Under the creative direction of founder Carlo Zanuso, the Italian fashion brand continues to explore the relationship between craftsmanship, femininity, and personal expression. Established in 2008 and rooted in a family tradition of Italian tailoring, Pomandère has developed a distinctive aesthetic characterized by fluid proportions, tactile fabrics, and a sophisticated understanding of everyday dressing.

For the new season, the house turns its attention toward the maritime landscape, finding inspiration in the subtle irregularities of natural surfaces, the movement of water, and the changing character of coastal light.

The result is a wardrobe that feels intimate and instinctive, where the beauty of a garment emerges through the way it moves, falls against the body, and responds to its surroundings.

The Colors of the Coast

Color provides one of the collection’s most compelling expressions of its seaside inspiration. Rather than relying on a conventional nautical palette, Pomandère explores the many shades and atmospheric contrasts found along the shoreline.

Warm écru, jute, ivory, and clay evoke sunlit shells and weathered sand, while touches of cadmium orange introduce an unexpected intensity. Earthier notes of ebony, sulfur, and olive bring depth to the composition, suggesting the shifting tones of coastal terrain.

The underwater world contributes another dimension. Mint, chlorophyll, and army green recall marine vegetation, while cerulean and sky blue suggest the openness of the horizon. Dusty rope tones and muted clay reference the weathered textures of fishing nets and objects shaped by the elements.

Elsewhere, the delicate luminosity of mother-of-pearl inspires rose quartz, mauve, tobacco, and golden yellow. As the palette deepens, indigo, navy, black, and chalk introduce the mystery of the sea after dark. These colors move through the collection with a natural sense of continuity, allowing contrasting tones to coexist within an elegantly considered wardrobe.

Where Fabric Becomes an Expression of Nature

At the heart of Sea Salt lies Pomandère’s ongoing fascination with textile development. Fabric becomes a central element of the collection’s visual identity, with texture, transparency, and surface treatments lending individuality to each piece.

Cotton poplin takes a prominent role, appearing in solid shades and a new ivory-and-havana striped variation. Stripes recur throughout the season, interpreted through irregular cotton patterns, delicate cotton-silk blends, and sophisticated tonal constructions.

Fresh accents of mint, camellia, and cadmium orange bring vitality to striped cotton-silk fabrics, while crinkled pinstripes on cotton-linen grounds and fine cotton fil-à-fil lend a refined sensibility to the collection’s shirting.

The exploration of lightness continues through crêpe gauze, including versions decorated with raised embroidered polka dots. Silk-cotton habotai introduces a graceful quality suited to more polished occasions, while airy cotton-silk chiffon appears in an extensive palette enlivened by lime and pale blue.

Among the collection’s particularly evocative details is the use of traditional Indian embroidery techniques. Delicate jaali ajour work lends intricate openwork detailing to linen garments, bringing an artisanal dimension to their clean, understated silhouettes.

Natural linen gauzes and embossed silk-blend satins undergo double-dyeing processes and Airo finishing, producing softly irregular surfaces with a subtle luminosity. Froissé eco-viscose and lyocell creponne voile further expand the collection’s tactile vocabulary, offering fluidity and comfort across everyday and occasion dressing.

The emphasis on material character gives Sea Salt much of its personality. Every weave, finish, and embroidered detail contributes to a wardrobe designed to be appreciated through touch as much as appearance.

The New Language of Relaxed Tailoring

Pomandère’s Spring-Summer 2027 collection also revisits tailoring through the lens of movement and versatility. Jackets and trousers are developed in lightweight cotton gabardine, cotton-linen taffeta, and textured seersucker, with micro houndstooth, windowpane checks, Bengal stripes, and Prince of Wales patterns bringing graphic interest to the season.

Natté weaves, cotton-linen cavalry twill, and lightweight wool-cotton-linen blends add further variety, creating a balance between softly structured silhouettes and the relaxed character of summer fabrics.

The approach reflects an important aspect of Pomandère’s design philosophy: the relationship between precision and ease. Tailoring retains its sense of intention while allowing the wearer freedom of movement and the flexibility to dress according to the moment.

Dresses, shirts, and outerwear receive particular attention throughout the collection, reinforcing the brand’s interest in pieces that can move naturally between different occasions. There is an appealing sense of longevity in this approach, with carefully considered proportions and fabrics that invite repeated wear.

Denim, Outerwear, and the Beauty of Everyday Dressing

Denim assumes a more prominent place in the Sea Salt wardrobe, introducing new silhouettes that emphasize the fabric’s authentic character. Raw denim receives an enzyme wash without the pronounced whiskering often associated with distressed finishes, preserving the richness of its original indigo. Traditional tobacco-colored stitching adds warmth, while the softened texture ensures comfort.

Outerwear follows a similarly thoughtful direction, offering different weights and fabrications to accommodate changing weather and seasonal transitions.

Garment-dyed, crinkled nylon-silk appears in lightweight padded designs, while water-resistant coated fabrics with a leather-like appearance provide a practical yet polished option. Cotton drill and vintage-effect panama cloth introduce additional textural interest.

Knitwear Inspired by the Elements

The collection’s knitwear offers another interpretation of coastal texture, exploring the relationship between softness, structure, and natural irregularity. Extra-fine organic cotton creates delicate, lightweight pieces, while stretch frisé cotton introduces a subtly textured finish. Openwork organic cotton knits reveal intricate stitch patterns inspired by the imperfect surfaces found in nature.

For the beginning of the season, alpaca-merino blends provide additional warmth and softness, appearing in fresh, luminous shades that complement the broader color story. Knitwear here feels particularly attuned to the transitional nature of spring, when light layers and adaptable fabrics become essential to everyday dressing.

Carlo Zanuso’s Vision of Modern Femininity

The sensibility behind Sea Salt is closely connected to Carlo Zanuso’s broader creative vision. Since founding Pomandère in 2008, Zanuso has drawn upon his background in family tailoring and his interest in travel, architecture, interiors, and cultural influences. These interests inform a design language where clean geometries coexist with soft silhouettes and carefully selected materials.

His approach to femininity favors individuality, ease, and quiet confidence. Clothing is conceived as part of a woman’s daily experience, with attention to how garments feel and function over time.

In Sea Salt, this philosophy finds a particularly natural expression. The coastal inspiration allows the designer to explore restraint, tactile richness, and subtle visual contrasts while remaining faithful to the brand’s sartorial foundations.

The collection also reflects Pomandère’s established interest in material selection and more responsible production practices, an area the brand has explored through initiatives involving organic fibers, alternative dyeing processes, and textile development.

Within the Spring-Summer 2027 offering, organic cotton, linen, and carefully developed fabric finishes form part of this continuing conversation between quality, craftsmanship, and contemporary design.

A Wardrobe for the Rhythm of Summer

Perhaps the most captivating aspect of Sea Salt is its ability to evoke a feeling rather than a specific destination. There is no need for an identifiable beach, Mediterranean village, or distant island to understand its inspiration. The collection draws on sensations that feel universally familiar: the warmth of sunlight on fabric, the coolness of a sea breeze, the faded beauty of objects exposed to salt and time.

Fluid dresses, expressive shirting, lightweight tailoring, textured knitwear, and considered outerwear come together in a wardrobe that embraces these impressions with understated sophistication.

The collection’s appeal lies in its attention to the details that make clothing personal: a beautifully worked surface, an unexpected color combination, the movement of a soft silhouette, or the comforting familiarity of a favorite fabric.

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