At the Zurich Opera House, the December premiere of Die Fledermaus unveiled a fresh visual world shaped by Arthur Arbesser, the celebrated Viennese designer whose refined, graphic sensibility has long distinguished his work. The production, directed by Anna Bernreitner with musical direction by maestro Lorenzo Viotti, offered a stage alive with color, precision, and a quiet reverence for theatrical storytelling — all hallmarks of Arbesser’s design language. His costumes brought a contemporary clarity to Johann Strauss’s iconic operetta, infusing the performance with both charm and conceptual sharpness.
Fledermaus – Photo ©_Herwig Prammer
For Arbesser, this debut collaboration with Zurich Opera marks a meaningful expansion of his already significant presence in the world of performance. With previous work for the Berlin State Opera, the Bayerische Staatsoper in Munich, Teatro Valli in Reggio Emilia, and two acclaimed productions for the Vienna State Ballet, he has carved a distinct creative space at the intersection of fashion, art, and stagecraft. His approach is rooted in meticulous research and a sensitivity to narrative, allowing him to construct wardrobes that feel deeply connected to character and place.
Fledermaus – Photo ©_Herwig Prammer
“Being part of a new theatre production and creatively throwing yourself into a bygone era or a new world is always a huge joy,” Arbesser has said, reflecting on the process. In Die Fledermaus, that joy is evident in garments that balance period inspiration with a crisp modern eye.
Silhouettes recall the elegance of Vienna’s cultural past, while Arbesser’s signature graphic intelligence introduces rhythmic patterns, confident color, and a sense of movement that echoes the operetta’s effervescence. The result is a visual harmony that supports Bernreitner’s storytelling with lightness and wit.
Fledermaus – Photo ©_Herwig Prammer
What makes Arbesser’s theatrical work compelling is the way it mirrors the breadth of his career. Born and raised in Vienna, he absorbed the city’s aesthetic heritage from an early age. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in London, he moved to Milan, where his work for a major fashion house sharpened his understanding of construction and refinement. Since launching his own label — and becoming a finalist for the 2015 LVMH Prize — he has developed a reputation for a graphic and personal aesthetic that translates fluidly across disciplines. His collaborations span fashion, furniture, and product design, each shaped by a rigorous yet poetic approach.
Fledermaus – Photo ©_Herwig Prammer
In Zurich, that approach manifests in costumes that never overwhelm the stage but instead heighten its energy. Arbesser’s work feels seamlessly interwoven with Bernreitner’s vision and the performances of a talented cast, whose characters come into sharper focus through the designer’s nuanced creations. Every garment becomes part of the operetta’s rhythm, guiding the eye with intention and amplifying the world Strauss imagined.
Fledermaus – Photo ©_Herwig Prammer
With Die Fledermaus, Arbesser affirms his place among the most compelling creatives shaping opera and ballet today. His costumes offer a vision that is both rooted in tradition and unmistakably contemporary — a reminder that costume design, in the right hands, can elevate a classic into a renewed sensory experience.
