NYFW Spring/Summer 2016 Day 6

News, Catwalk — By on September 17, 2015 at 9:17 am

Early in the morning I took an interview from Charlotte Welch – who is Executive Fashion Director for the House of Borel and Stylist for Michael Costello – starting my discussion with their common project; the ‘Eve’ clutch which was specially designed to accessorize some of the designer’s creations at the show. House of Borel has also designed a few more special edition exotic skin bags including bold medium-size backpacks that turn into chic handbags with a single move.

house_of_borel_bag1

These luxe creations are hand-made in Italy and are meant to be both statements and investment pieces in your closet. On my way to the next show I realized that I left my physical invite at the hotel and I had to get back. It seems that digital invites are way more efficient and environmentally-friendly!

The day was destined to be hectic, since most of the important shows were running one after the other and being there on time depended seriously on the traffic and my good fortune. At 23 Wall St, I attended the Diesel Black Gold show which was a cool and dark mix of black & midnight blue along with cut-outs, rocker-chick appliqués, studded motifs on leather and other luxe biker-culture details.

ss16_day6_1Models’ hair were messily swept to the side into a grunge look that will definitely make waves among hipsters. Exquisite leather jackets, asymmetric see-through dresses and leather overalls will sell out soon, snapped by the elite of entertainment and all those collecting statement pieces! I didn’t manage to get some clear pictures from the show because of the lighting at the venue, yet I was able to see the creations and really enjoy the new offerings. Renzo Rosso was front row, and I could easily listen to whispers dubbing him “The King”! Upon leaving the venue I was walking next to Nicola Formichetti who is the Artistic Director of the brand! So cool!

ss16_day6_2The bet of the day was being able to catch the Dennis Basso show at the Moynihan Station right after, knowing also that I left a precious memory card at the hotel close by that was necessary to me while on duty. Rushing through the traffic, I arrived seconds before the show started, while my hubby arranged for me to get the memory card before checking in. It was really worth it because Dennis Basso graced us with some really glamorous outings including fur-trimmed capes, and richly embellished evening gowns always on the romantic side of things.

ss16_day6_3Then, I got back to Pier 59 Studios in Chelsea – where I was early in the morning for the Charlotte Welch interview – to attend the Michael Costello show which was (like that of Dennis Basso) attended by the Hilton sisters. It was dually inspired by the French Riviera and L.A. The Project Runway ‘alumni’ wanted to portray a jet-setter traveling both destinations and carrying with her same luggage with same outfits. Bold colors, glam details, thigh-high slits and revealing necklines along with draped flowing fabrics and golden booties were part of an attention-grabbing wardrobe. These evening gowns and jumpsuits will definitely be sported on the red carpet!

ss16_day6_4My next stop was again at Moynihan Station where I was seating front row at the Carmen Marc Valvo show to see some amazing graphic prints, monochromes and sharp contracts of black, white, and red. The designer juxtaposed linear forms with flowing flares and pleats, as well as embellished the gowns with geometrically arranged sequins. Motifs inspired by nature – flora and fauna – rendered in abstract forms were strategically placed on both menswear and womenswear. Swimsuits from this collection were even more exciting and are already in my wishlist. Let the one-piece trend go on!

ss16_day6_5Soon after, at the recently launched NYFW headquarters in Meatpacking, IMG and DHL representatives were introducing us to two of the DHL Exported winning designers – Marcel Ostertag from Germany and Sid Neigum from Canada – who managed to get support for their brands the same way Italian Francesca Liberatore did at the previous inaugural season of the contest. At this point, I really needed a drink, and what a better treat than a champagne toast with the winners! Francesca as a result of this support increased her e-commerce sales by 400% which sounds enormous and promising to anybody participating in this contest.

ss16_day6_6A glass of champagne and I cab ride later, I was at the Cuban-inspired presentation of the Hanley Mellon collection, were old shiny cars in bold colors met with Havana’s rustic and retro spirit. Being served more champagne and more fashion there, I really felt part of this ongoing style feast in NYC! The earthy palette of the cloths, the folk details and the bandannas gave an exotic feel. The designer artfully mixed frilly short skirts with mannish brogues, peasant shirts, culottes, tunics, and shorts to create a very comfortable look  ideal for warm-weather vacations.

ss16_day6_7And from the established, I instantly jumped into the experimental, watching a student show by the Art Institute of NY at the Moynihan Station. Not all successful, yet some ideas were really intriguing and indicative of a new generation of designers willing to break the rules. Fabric manipulation and contouring seem to be areas in which they stand out. New textures and silhouettes can surely be the future. Even on the brink of costumey, one can tell that those looks can offer us a new narrative!

And there is more coming up!

xoxo

Elena Sendona

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